Dr. Eades' Incredible Cooking Machine
Gregg and I have become friends with Dr. Michael Eades, who, with his wife Dr. Mary Dan Eades, are two of the very, very few practitioners out there of truly evidence-based dietary medicine. Their books include The Protein Power Lifeplan and their most recent, The 6-Week Cure for the Middle-Aged Middle
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Their blog, proteinpower.com, is a great compliment to the wonderful investigative work of Gary Taubes, author of Good Calories, Bad Calories, who showed, most substantively, that the American diet is based in "science," not science. It's the non-evidence-based urging of doctors and even (often-careerist) researchers that has Americans eating the high-carbohydrate, low-fat diet that actually makes them fat.
Not only do the Eades help people eat more healthily, they're about to help them do it much more tastily.
Julia Moskin writes in The New York Times of an incredible machine, the Sous Vide, that the Eades have engineered (and priced) for home use. Theirs is the $449 Sous Vide Supreme (typically $1,500 and up in restaurant sous vide machines). Moskin reports:
ONCE you sous vide, you never go back.That, at least, is the chant of a global pantheon of chefs -- like Heston Blumenthal, Joël Robuchon, Ferran Adrià, and Tetsuya Wakuda -- who have made this low, slow cooking method the standard in the last decade.
And last month, Fritz Cloninger, a technical writer in Jersey City, joined that elite company with a pork chop and a SousVide Supreme, the first self-contained sous-vide machine for home cooks, which has just come on the market priced at $449.
"My wife thought I was crazy to get this thing, but already she doesn't want to eat anything else," Mr. Cloninger said last week. "I even made a hamburger in it this morning."
Sous vide combines the gentle, steady heat of poaching and an airtight seal, as in traditional methods of cooking in clay. "The food literally stews in its own juices: no air, no water, no evaporation," said Wesley Genovart, the chef at Degustation, a restaurant in the East Village, who has experimented with sous-viding everything from carrots to crème brûlée.
Until now, home cooks wanting to try the method have had to improvise, with solutions from low-tech (a stockpot and a handful of ice cubes) to high (a chamber sealer and an immersion circulator, generating about $1,500 in start-up costs). But there seems to be an audience, however small, for an easier and cheaper way. The first 500 SousVide Supreme machines sold out via the Internet before shipping in November, according to the manufacturers. More are on the way, available for order online now, and scheduled to reach Sur la Table warehouses in January.
For on-the-ground-in-the-kitchen experience (since I am about as domestic as my friend Dr. Helen, who once made Glenn salmon with ice crystals inside (yum!) early on when they were dating), here's Diana Hsieh writing about cooking with the Sous Vide Supreme for a week. And here is Fritz Cloninger's post on it.







Yet another appliance, that does... what exactly?
Nothing that a hot plate, crockpot, or slow oven cannot do.
After initial interest, I have cooled on sous vide... it's basically a long, slow braise. Easily reproduced without special equipment. And exactly what chemicals leach into the food during its long simmer in a plastic bag?
In fact, you could get the same result with a hay box - a staple of off grid cooking - at considerable energy savings, with no loss of convenience.
hayboxes and retained heat cooking:
http://www.solarcooking.org/heat-retention/
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1980-01-01/Rediscover-the-Hay-Box-Cooker.aspx
Ben-David at December 13, 2009 11:55 PM
Amy Alkon
https://www.advicegoddess.com/archives/2009/12/dr-eades-incred.html#comment-1682247">comment from Ben-DavidNot true, but I'll have to let Eades or a chef explain -- they can do it better than I. And it's food-grade plastic, cooked at a temperature that is controlled in a way you can't control the others. Crock pot food isn't so hot, or they'd be making it in fine restaurants.
Amy Alkon
at December 14, 2009 12:09 AM
72 hours for spare ribs? No thanks.
Patrick at December 14, 2009 3:15 AM
Didn't read any of the links, but every American knows that the only way to cook ribs is with smoke.
brian at December 14, 2009 5:38 AM
Seems more like a Blu-Ray type of cooking advancement instead of DVD. In other words, purists will love it and discuss the nuances and differences that make it so worth the investment. The vast majority of people will consider existing cooking methods good enough. DVD was so clearly superior it became one of the fastest technologies ever adopted by consumers. In contrast Blu-Ray has really lagged. The difference between DVD and Blu-Ray isn't worth the effort to upgrade for most people. That does not mean it is not better. I just mean it is not compellingly better to most people to justify purchasing.
I am curious. How green is it? Leaving it on for up to 72 hours seems like it uses more energy than other methods? Here is what I found on the website:
"Although it is difficult to scientifically determine the quantitative energy savings involved, because water is a much more efficient medium for heat transfer than air, the SousVide Supreme is considerably more energy efficient than conventional cooking appliances. Once the desired water bath temperature is reached, the SousVide Supreme uses only about the energy of a 60 watt light bulb to cook."
In other words, it uses less energy as it cooks but does not seem to claim overall savings over other methods in total cooking time including heating up the water.
I will pass on getting one. But I also admit I am not the target audience for this type of appliance.
LoneStarJeffe at December 14, 2009 5:45 AM
It doesn't replicate more easily available cooking methods. Before weighing in, it's worthwhile to read Dr. Eades' definitive blog post on sous vide cooking, how it works, and why it's different:
http://www.proteinpower.com/drmike/food-porn/diy-sous-vide/#more-3835.
Read through the comments as well to get a feel for everyday people and their experiences with the method and the machine.
Robin at December 14, 2009 6:37 AM
I've been aware of sous vide for a while, being an avid consumer of shows like "Top Chef." But I still balk at ponying up $450 for yet another kitchen appliance. And even after saying that, I'm impressed that the Eades managed to make the device at 1/3 the cost of a usual unit.
My mother used to make a ham by putting it in the oven set to 200º since she read that a ham is fully cooked when the center reaches that temp. She figured that about 12 hours in the oven at that temp would fully cook the ham without over cooking it. We used to "snack" slices off the exterior as the ham cooked since it smelled sooooo good.
BlogDog at December 14, 2009 9:23 AM
But why do I want to cook a steak for 6 hours? It's fun in a commercial place to try this technique but for a home cook, it's insane. I predict this will be a big hit with retired men who discover cooking, and have lots of time on their hands.
Diana Hsieh seems to be crazy about cooking eggs this way, but I'm not spending $500 to make soft-boiled eggs.
KateC at December 14, 2009 9:43 AM
and this cooking thing is what again?
SwissArmyD at December 14, 2009 3:20 PM
Thanks for mentioning my blog!
mrfreddy at December 14, 2009 6:34 PM
Amy:
Crock pot food isn't so hot, or they'd be making it in fine restaurants.
- - - - - - - - - - -
Yet a crock-pot like solution was/is used in many restaurants for stew-like recipes.
As a Sabbath observant Jew, I have considerable experience with slow, low cooking techniques.
The sous vide food has to be "browned" at high temp before serving.
Traditional braising in a Dutch oven involves browning first, then cooking in a sealed pot at very low, diffuse hea - low enough heat that the liquid does not bubble. Some traditional recipes actually seal the pot with flour paste.
So aside from when the browning takes place, what's the difference?
(and it could be argued that browning first allows rich flavors to develop from caramelized sugars...)
Put water in your crockpot, and by an oven-roating plastic bag if you want to feel trendy.
Slow is slow.
Ben-David at December 15, 2009 12:14 PM
Apparently also being used in molecular mixology for inventing new cocktails:
http://www.newscientist.com/article/mg20427392.500-hightech-tipples-the-future-of-cocktails.html?DCMP=OTC-rss&nsref=magcontents
Gog_Magog_Carpet_Reclaimers at December 18, 2009 8:03 PM
If the "finger tips" combined with common sense doesn"t cover it, you might wanna reconsider having an iPod Touch/iPhone/iPad.Had iProducts since before iPhone. Have had last 3 iPhones. But I want an FM radio so I don"t have to carry a seperate device.Listening to the podcast now. Light leaks on the white iPhone. Could that be the real reason there"s still no white iPhone 4?It"s really cute but I wouldn"t pay that much for it. Especially if it"s as hard to get the phone in and out of (as it looks).Unfortunately with an unlocked phone, the cariers don"t give you a better plan. So basically this means loosing the subsidies…For me, all it needs is a dropbox style folder sync, so i can auto backup stuff. Unless its possible and i just dont know it?!
Convert VOB to MPEG at March 16, 2011 1:06 PM
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