No More Shoe-Leather Chops
Think pink! (When cooking pork.) Steve Cavendish writes at the LA Times that the USDA changed its guidelines, recommending that pork be cooked to 145 degrees -- 15 degrees less shoe-leather'y than the previous 160 degree standard. Andrew Zimmerman of Sepia (a Chicago restaurant) agreed:
"I think it's great. It's a long time coming, especially as the quality of pork - particularly heirloom pork - continues to improve. The original reasons for cooking pork to a higher temperature (namely trichinosis) are no longer much of a problem these days," he said."Really good heirloom pork is best served at medium/medium-rare. I'd still love to see it go down a bit more, to about 135, but it's a huge improvement over 160. Our guests request their pork chops cooked medium rare all the time, so chefs and consumers are both winning here."
But food writer Michael Ruhlman said even 145 degrees got it wrong.
"It's a good thing they lowered the temperature because the 160 degrees is not only ridiculous, it is inaccurate and therefore harmful," he said. "But 145 degrees still doesn't make sense to me because it fails to include time. I cook my pork to 135 degrees because that is the point at which its flavor and texture are best."
In news going the other way ("cooked beyond recognition"), North Carolina has killed the rare hamburger. Ben Muessig writes on AOL:
From Winston-Salem to Nags Head, meat eaters are unable to order their burgers rare or even medium rare thanks to a state restriction that requires restaurants to cook ground beef to an internal temperature of 155 degrees Fahrenheit.That's enough heat to sufficiently kill dangerous bacteria like E. coli, according to state health officials. But it's also enough heat to kill all of the flavor, according to Raleigh resident and rare burger aficionado Steven Elliot.
"I don't believe in a nanny state when it comes to food," said Elliot, who told AOL Weird News he would order his burgers "bloody" or "ready to moo" if he could.
"I don't like the government telling us what we can and cannot eat," he added.
Red meat eaters who prefer their meat, well, red, can still legally grill up their own rare burgers at home. But North Carolina's restaurants can't go a step below medium -- or medium well, according to some restaurants -- if they want to stay in the good graces of the state's Division of Environmental Health.
Assuming they're serving adults, can't they let the adults decide for themselves? Same as they decide whether to risk going hangliding, getting behind the wheel of a car, and walking across the street. I'd guess all of these activities kill far more people than rare hamburgers...yet, I bet thousands upon thousands of North Carolina residents cross the street every day.
I eat nearly raw meat at home and at restaurants and have been for years, and it hasn't killed me yet. The other night, it was two little lamb chops Gregg left me when he brought over some steak he cooked me for dinner. Well, "cooked." Naturally, he made my steak very rare, just the way I like it; or, as they say when ordering in Texas: "Just wipe its ass, knock off its horns, and throw it on a plate."







Amen on adults being able to decide for themselves. Why can't North Carolina restaurants do like I've seen elsewhere (like where I am, one state to the west): post on the menu that the restaurant is not responsible if you get sick ordering meat below a certain temperature. The diner gets what he wants and the restaurant isn't held liable. There are even restaurants that won't cook meat above a certain temperature because it loses its flavor. I don't support that, because I think a diner should be able to get what he wants (within reason), but it illustrates that some or most meats just aren't as good cooked at higher temperatures.
I think meat is icky, but you should be able to eat it any way you want as long as you assume responsibility for the potential consequences. Restaurants should have an informed consent policy.
NumberSix at May 26, 2011 12:34 AM
Were I used to live ever menu had a warning that said something like "Eating undercooked or raw beef, pork, chicken, eggs.... may cause serious illness."
still, for a burger you could generally only get a little pink in the middle. For a steak, a bit more than that. A co-worker who really liked his meat rare told me that some places would slowly give it to you rarer if you kept going there...got to know him I guess or something. Apparently the places are still worried about getting sued.
A place I used to go to only did there burgers well (and given it was rather fast-foody, that is all I would want from there) and they were still excellant tasting though the texture was changed. Even some of my friends who liked things rarier thought that places burgers were good. The owner claimed it was the fresh (never forzen) local beef that made the difference.
The Former Banker at May 26, 2011 12:35 AM
Good update to the rules (though it should be unnecessary for those who want the choice). I like my pork chop / loin just right between medium / medium rare.
For steak, rare / medium rare (I don't mind rarer in principle, but it's usually cool, and I like my steak warm).
Burgers, medium well, if I don't know the providence of the meat (who knows what random meat is involved), but medium rare / medium if I trust the source, or if I grind it myself.
Here (OK), at least, most of the places I go to don't have any issues with however you want it cooked (standard disclaimer on menu).
There are some who call me 'Tim?' at May 26, 2011 1:20 AM
The FDA meat-inspection program is severely underfunded, and more or less an ally of the meat-processing industry, rather than its taskmaster. If meatpackers could be relied on to supply untainted meat, restrictions on restaurants could be lifted. As it is today, you are playing roulette with your digestive system if you dine out and order rare meat.
franko at May 26, 2011 2:39 AM
It's getting increasingly difficult to get eggs "over easy," or even "over medium" in a restaurant these days. Good reason not to eat out, which my family and I do much less of lately, anyway. However, there are a lot of people who don't have as much choice in eating out as I do.
One thing I wish "they" would require is clear disclosure when "meat glue" (transglutaminase) is used, because it invalidates the idea that it's safe to eat steaks rare. When "meat glue" is used, parts of the meat that were previously on the outside (and thus open to contamination) are undetectably placed in the inside of the steak and thus don't get hot enough during the cooking to kill the bacteria. Not to mention that you may be ordering a nice juicy steak and are instead getting tenderized, stuck-together stew meat.
So, while I certainly am against the "gub-mint" requiring our food to be cooked in a certain way, I don't think it's out of bounds to ask that if we think we are buying meat, it actually BE all meat and not meat-with-transglutaminase glop. Otherwise, we are deciding based on incomplete information.
By the way, you can be sure that ANY lunch meat, wieners or other deli meat contains "meat glue" to hold together the scraps they swept up off the floor.
gharkness at May 26, 2011 2:54 AM
I enjoyed raw milk in Philadelphia. Can' get it here though.
NicoleK at May 26, 2011 3:11 AM
"I eat nearly raw meat at home and at restaurants and have been for
years, and it hasn't killed me yet."
Yeah, and NASA sent up the shuttle many times in marginal conditions
with the "never had any trouble (yet)" mindset.
You may even be right, but "hasn't killed me yet" isn't a valid
substitute for knowing what the odds are. Most people who
religiously use safety belts in cars have never experienced any
direct benefit, either. If they used the "hasn't killed me yet"
argument, they might not go to the bother of belting up.
Ron at May 26, 2011 4:28 AM
Wegmans sells irradiated ground beef, which is sufficient to kill the bacteria that cause these illnesses. The luddites don't like that either.
MarkD at May 26, 2011 6:18 AM
I've taken to grinding my own "hamburger" out of steaks. Actually, I grind steak and bacon together (at about a 2-1 ratio of steak to bacon) to make the most incredible bacon burgers I've ever had. Seriously. The bacon is in the burger itself. Damn 'at's good eats!
Amy, if you and Gregg ever get to hang out in the NoVa, I promise I'll make you a batch.
BlogDog at May 26, 2011 8:35 AM
Actually, I grind steak and bacon together (at about a 2-1 ratio of steak to bacon) to make the most incredible bacon burgers I've ever had.
Have you considered making sausage?
I R A Darth Aggie at May 26, 2011 8:55 AM
That sounds like the perfect bacon cheeseburger. Beef and bacon, uncontaminated by spoiled milk.
MarkD at May 26, 2011 11:14 AM
As a Texan I endorse this message: "Just wipe its ass, knock off its horns, and throw it on a plate."
Aaron at May 26, 2011 11:16 AM
I R A Darth Aggie,
No. There are so many really good commercially available sausages that the trouble of stuffing skins was more than I would really want to go through.
But I hadn't thought of sausage-fying the "bacon burger" to be honest. Hmmm. (pondering) I may give that a try if I can borrow the stuffing equipment. Thanks for the idea!
BlogDog at May 26, 2011 11:16 AM
A friend used to describe how he would order steak thus: "Take the steak, hold it over the grill, and explain to it the concept of fire. Then bring it to me."
I find the older I get, the more rare I like my beef. Generally I prefer pork done all the way through.
Michael P (@PizSez) at May 26, 2011 11:39 AM
Vincent: "But bacon tastes good. Pork chops taste good."
Jules: "Yeah, and sewer rat may taste like pumpkin pie, but I'll never know 'cause I'll never eat the filthy mofo."
Considering modern swine and cattle feedlot conditions, I'd say Jules is on to something.
Gog_Magog_Carpet_Reclaimers at May 26, 2011 5:12 PM
I just got a couple of cows back from slaughter, one came back at 945lbs and one came back at 1280lbs, not sure if that included the paper they were wrapped in or not.
I like cooking my steaks to the point the outside looks brown and feels like wet rough leather and just a milimeter or two beneath is blood red, piping hot and the juice that comes out looks as red as my blood the time I hit an artery
lujlp at May 26, 2011 6:18 PM
'"I don't believe in a nanny state when it comes to food," said Elliot'
Seriously, fuck this dude. He's just like the "we should raise taxes but not on me" or the "cut spending except the program that sends money to me.
The minute the nanny state affects him he doesn't see the reason for it but I'm sure he supports other nannyism. How do people not see how this works? If you support the nanny state to stop other people from doing stuff you don't like it will come back to haunt you because there are people out there who will try and stop you from what you are doing because they dont like. Give the state the power and they will abuse it, even against you.
Scott at May 28, 2011 7:29 AM
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