Fashion Models Aren't Role Models; They're Sales Tools
Because some designers use all-black or all-Asian models -- uncommonly -- and because many designers use an all-white runway crew, does that necessarily mean they're racist or things should be different?
Eric Wilson writes in The New York Times about fashion's "blind spot":
"Black models accounted for only 6 percent of the looks shown at last year's Fashion Week."
Blacks only account for 13 percent of the population. Why is it a crisis that the number doesn't match exactly?
From the story:
Calvin Klein, once a vastly diverse show, has frequently been faulted for its mostly white casting, including by Mr. Scully, who said the company sometimes hired one black model "to not get in trouble."Francisco Costa, the women's creative director, responded in an e-mail that the company looks for diverse faces in its casting. But, he wrote: "There are only a handful of top-level, professionally trained models of color at a particular level out there now, and they end up being booked by other fashion houses and can be seen on dozens of runways each season, which is counter to what we are looking for. We try to present a unique and interesting cast with as many exclusives as possible to create and emphasize that season's aesthetic."
Maida Gregori Boina, the casting director for Calvin Klein and Dior, said that Mr. Costa has pushed for more diversity, "but we don't want to book a model because we are obliged." The Dior casting, she said, was the result of the multicultural concept of the collection, not the criticism, and she actually wanted more minorities represented in the show.
"Unfortunately, you've got what you've got in the agencies," said Ms. Boina, who is half black. "I am conscious I have to do more. But it has to be part of a movement that includes the entire fashion industry."
The old arguments within the industry -- the designers say the agents don't send them black models, and the agents say the designers don't want any black models -- increasingly seem insufficient when luxury fashion has become such a global business, with untold numbers of consumers watching the shows online. It now becomes noteworthy when a label like Dsquared creates advertisements using only black male models or only Asian female models.
Shouldn't they be attacked for failing to be "diverse"?
What's next, demanding that stores show a certain percentage of this or that race or sexual persuasion?
By the way: Personally, I happen to like seeing black models -- especially those with very dark skin, whom I find very beautiful, and I copied my old curly, shorter haircut from a black model's photo in Vogue. So, yes, in that case, you could say she was a role model.
This was interesting -- comment from NYT:
Big M, NYC Just returned from several weeks in China, where it was striking how many billboard and store window ads for major global fashion brands used Western models. Asian faces were not to be found.








Who is the target market? The only color that matters is green.
MarkD at August 8, 2013 10:45 AM
I wouldn't blame the industry, their business is to sell. But I do find it worrisome that business has found that black doesn't sell. No, the number doesn't have to match exactly, but it's a pretty big percentage difference.
Effectively what this says is that we as a society don't find black women attractive enough to sell clothes. Which is unfortunate.
NicoleK at August 8, 2013 10:46 AM
I manage a theatre company in South Florida. We are still relatively new on the scene but making quite a name for ourselves. My Artistic Director recently went to a panel for local theatre companies. One of the topics that came up was “diversity” in the arts. The woman at the helm of the discussion apparently did nothing but lambaste the local Directors that were in attendance because they, in her opinion, weren’t doing enough “diverse” work or advertising to more “diverse audiences”. She insisted that none of us were doing enough to bring in the black audiences and weren’t hiring enough black actors. Even when questioned on what they could do to bring in these audiences (as if they were being turned away at the door?), she had no answer but continued to insist that WE were the problem. One director, asked her about the African-American theatre in Miami and if they were going to be held to the same standard and be forced to hire more white actors. She completely avoided the question.
One of the Directors in attendance was a gay man who runs a theatre that does predominately gay themed works. He’s got a corner on the niche market that is gay theatre but has gift for making it appealing to ALL audiences. My thinking is, if ANYONE in that room could understand discrimination and the need for diversity in the arts, it was him. She laid into him the hardest. Everyone in the room was flabbergasted by this blatant attack on one of the most well-known and well respected Directors whose KNOWN for creating diverse and interesting theatre for ALL audiences.
I recently held auditions for my own show. In my casting notice, I made it very clear that I was looking for people of all ethnicities. I am especially looking for a black man for one lead part. Out of over forty audionees, TWO were black. I've reached out to every single one of my connections and BEGGED them to send me ethnic actors. None have responded. I'm even willing to consider casting a black woman to play the man's part but again, no response. Now, tell me. What am *I* suppossed to do about that? I am now even considering casting a white man to play the black mans part if I get no response.
Do you think the fact that I've gone out of my way to reach out and get ethnic actors for my show will stop the nay-sayers? Probably not.
I’ve discovered these things to be true from those who make the most noise about “diversity”:
1) They’re almost always black.
2) When challenged about the actual numbers of black talent being used vs. being available the response is always how it's someone elses fault. “You’re not doing enough to attract black people.”
3) They will never hold themselves to the same standard and never respond well to the challenge to do so.
4) They want it handed to them; they don't want to have to work for it.
It’s not about diversity; It’s about entitlement.
They know how to play on the sympathies of those out there that suffer from “white man’s guilt” and the do it, shamelessly.
Sabrina at August 8, 2013 11:11 AM
Will obi say that if he had sons, they'd look like these:
http://sandrarose.com/2013/08/prosecutors-will-not-charge-elderly-bus-driver-for-not-doing-more-to-stop-attack-on-bus/
Stinky the Clown at August 8, 2013 11:41 AM
Asians while extremely xenophobic (especially against other Asians) love the looks of pale blonde white people. You gotta be pale k? None of that tanning shit, they do NOT like it. Plus Koreans have tons and tons of plastic surgery to look more Western.
As for those unfamiliar with fashion history tons of white models used to get turned down because of their "darkness" or being too "ethnic" looking.
YSL was the first major dude to feature black models prominently.....but very dark skinned women do not sell, even to blacks. People do not like very dark skin, especially those with dark skin. Bleaching is popular in black countries and in India. In the history of humanity I don't think truly dark skin has ever been popular.
Anyways if you look at the rankings, right now several Asian and black models are considered top. I believe the top model right now is Dominican (black). Multi-racial girls are also becoming popular thanks to the past wave of Brazilian girls.
But what people need to understand is models are fads. One of my favorite periods was when the whole "baby faced alien" look was in. Famous in its portrayal by Gemma Ward.
And well those in the background of fashion are very diverse.
Ppen at August 8, 2013 12:40 PM
The NFL is about 70% black.
Time to thin that number. Right?
Hypocrites. There isn't a strong enough word for how repulsive these rabble-rousers are.
Radwaste at August 8, 2013 2:34 PM
Amy Alkon
https://www.advicegoddess.com/archives/2013/08/fashion-models.html#comment-3844102">comment from RadwasteThe NFL is about 70% black.
Great point.
Maybe somebody should force some team to draft me.
Amy Alkon
at August 8, 2013 2:44 PM
Personally Amy, I think you would be a better fit in the NBA.
Isab at August 8, 2013 4:56 PM
What about the diversity of the NBA? And the number of white fans?
Jim P. at August 8, 2013 5:33 PM
I would imagine that the issue of Western billboards in China is akin to the use of British spokesmen to sell stuff in the U.S. American consumers (apparently) hear a British accent and assume the pitchman is legit.
There's something about the "other" in advertising. (Or in the consulting world, it's the inherent trust given to the "guy from out of town with the briefcase.")
AB at August 9, 2013 4:22 AM
"She insisted that none of us were doing enough to bring in the black audiences..."
Now this is interesting. Are we going to now have ethnic quotas on audiences? I encourage this. In the context of the unaware self-mockery into which government-regulated Western art has descended into, this might well be the ultimate achievement.
Cousin Dave at August 9, 2013 7:39 AM
Cousin Dave, the thought is frightening.
Sabrina at August 9, 2013 12:17 PM
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